If winter heave, sun, and years of traffic have left your driveway cracked or uneven, you’ve got options—from simple crack sealing to full-depth replacement. This guide breaks down how to diagnose the problem, choose the right fix, understand ballpark costs in Utah, and keep your driveway looking good for years.
The Quick Take
- Repair if damage is localized (a few cracks, small spalls, minor settling).
- Resurface if the slab is sound but the surface is tired, stained, or lightly pitted.
- Replace if you see widespread cracking, sinking/heaving across panels, or base failure/drainage issues.
What ruins driveways in Utah (and how to spot it)
- Freeze–thaw cycles: Water in/under concrete freezes, expands, and pops surface paste (scaling/spalling) or lifts slabs (heave).
- De-icing salts & meltwater: Chlorides accelerate surface wear; frequent wet–dry cycles invite scaling.
- Expansive/clayey soils: Seasonal movement creates uneven slabs and joint separation.
- Drainage problems: Downspouts or negative slope wash out base material; edges crumble first.
- Heavy loads & snow removal: Box trucks or steel-blade plows stress thin or poorly jointed slabs.
Red flags:
- Random “map” cracking across panels
- Edges breaking off where tires track
- Panels at different heights (trip hazards)
- Pitting/scaling that keeps spreading
- Water pooling near the garage or entry
Diagnosis: match the symptom to the fix
- Hairline or control-joint cracks (stable, no height change): Clean, seal, and monitor.
- Isolated spalls/potholes: Patch or partial-depth repair; consider resurfacing for cosmetics.
- One or two sunken panels (no slab breakage): Slabjacking/foam lifting to re-level.
- Widespread cracking, multiple low spots, or soft base: Full removal and replacement.
- Chronic icing near the garage/porch: Address drainage grade and downspouts along with any repair.
Your options & typical Utah ballpark costs*
Prices vary by site, access, thickness, reinforcement, finish, and disposal. Use these as rough planning ranges and get a local written quote.
1) Crack & joint maintenance
- Clean-and-seal hairline cracks; re-seal control/expansion joints
- Typical: $2–$4 per linear ft (joints) | $250–$600 small-service visit
2) Patch small spalls/potholes
- Partial-depth repair with bonded patch material
- Typical: $8–$12 per sq ft (localized areas)
3) Level uneven panels (slabjacking/foam)
- Inject grout or foam to lift settled panels, then re-caulk joints
- Typical: $6–$12 per sq ft of affected panels
4) Resurfacing/overlay (slab is structurally sound)
- Microtopping or overlay (can add texture/color)
- Typical: $4–$10 per sq ft (basic) | $8–$14 (decorative/stamped overlay)
5) Full removal & replacement
- Tear-out, base prep/compaction, rebar or mesh, 4–6″ air-entrained mix, joints, curing, sealing
- Typical: $8–$15+ per sq ft (standard broom finish)
- Tear-out/disposal: often $1–$3 per sq ft (sometimes rolled into bids)
- Timeline: 1–3 days onsite + cure time (see below)
Need a local quote or help choosing? A trusted local concrete company in Cedar City can assess soil, drainage, and slab condition and give you a written plan and price.
Replace vs. resurface: a simple decision framework
Choose resurfacing if:
- Cracks are tight and not moving (no height difference)
- Base is firm (no pumping or soft spots)
- You want a fresh, uniform look or decorative finish
Choose replacement if:
- Multiple panels show random “map” cracking
- Panels rock or move under load; widespread settlement/heave
- Drainage is wrong (pitch toward the house) or base is failing
- You need structural fixes (thickness/reinforcement/drive lane redesign)
What a quality replacement looks like (checklist)
- Base: 4–6″ compacted granular base; correct slope (≈1–2% away from structures)
- Thickness: Typically 4″ residential; consider 5–6″ in heavy wheel paths
- Reinforcement: Rebar on chairs or welded wire mesh placed mid-depth
- Air-entrained concrete for freeze–thaw durability; proper slump/water control
- Joints: Spacing ≈ 10–12 ft or 2–3× slab thickness (in feet); ¼ slab depth; edges too
- Curing: Wet cure or curing compound; protect from early freeze/heat
- Sealing: After cure, film-forming or penetrating sealer suited to de-icing exposure
Cure times & access
- Foot traffic: ~24–48 hours
- Passenger vehicles: ~7 days (longer in cold)
- Full design strength: ~28 days
- De-icing salts: Avoid the first winter if possible; use sand/CMA instead
Maintenance that actually matters (Utah climate)
- Seal every 2–3 years (more often for decorative/stamped finishes)
- Shovel with plastic edges; avoid steel blades that chip edges
- Mind the chemistry: Use sand or calcium magnesium acetate over rock salt
- Trim and drain: Keep downspouts off the driveway; maintain edge support
- Weight discipline: Avoid regular parking of heavy box trucks or dumpsters on thin slabs
Planning a new build or big exterior upgrade?
If you’re designing a new home—or coordinating a full exterior refresh—tie driveway specs into site grading, garage floor heights, and hardscape design from day one. It’s the easiest way to get proper thickness, reinforcement, and drainage without change orders. See new home construction options that integrate driveway design, grading, and exterior finishes.
When to bring in a pro (and what to ask)
- Is the damage structural or cosmetic? Any base or drainage failure?
- Will slabjacking work here, or is the slab cracked through?
- What mix design, thickness, reinforcement, and joint layout are you proposing?
- How will you handle tear-out/disposal, site access, and cure protection?
- What’s the warranty on materials and workmanship?
For hands-on help—from crack sealing to full replacements—book a site visit with a local concrete contractor who knows Utah soils and freeze–thaw realities. Start here:
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